View of cruise ship across isthmus at Picton

February 19

Sign at Picton

We woke up to brilliant blue skies this morning and had breakfast downstairs with two young ladies from Austria. Greg drove us to the water taxi office and we had ample time to check in for our 10am departure. Since we were spending one night on the track, Fred and I put a change of clothes and our toiletries into a single smallish bag for the water tax to deliver to our lodging on the track.  So all we had to carry was a daybag and camera.

Water taxi leaving Ships Cove

It was about a 40-minute trip to Ship Cove where about 2 dozen of us disembarked.  The first portion of the track is the steepest, so you can get it out of the way.  A couple in our group was in their mid-80’s and said they did the track every year!  At the bottom of the hill, we took a side track to Schoolhouse Bay and ate our lunch.  It was very tranquil (we were the only ones there!) and gazed at a schooner anchored in the bay.

Relief!

As we got closer to Endeavor Inlet, there were more signs of activity.  We found our B&B and Colleen showed us around the property.  It was a little wanting of attention, but very comfortable.  The footbath was much appreciated by Fred.

View of Resolution Bay

We relaxed the rest of the afternoon, enjoying the view of Endeavor Inlet. Then our dinner arrived around 6pm. When we told Greg, at Fernview Cottage, which B&B we were staying at on the QCT, his comment was, “Colleen’s a great cook!”  We had some of the best lamb and side dishes, followed by lemon curd mousse!

February 20

Early morning, Endeavor Inlet

Our breakfast makings were in the room and we helped ourselves to cereal, fruit, juice, and coffee. Once we said goodbye to our hosts, and got her recipe for the lamb, we were on our way. Today’s journey would end at Punga Cove Resort, where our water-taxi would pick us up.

Friendly Weka

Fred got some pictures of the sound in the early morning stillness and then we checked out Furneaux Lodge.  It was quite different than our little 2-room Bed and Breakfast. It had large grounds with manicured lawns, a restaurant, large boat dock, and paved walkways.

Today’s walk was much easier than the day before.  We stopped to eat our lunch at a picnic table along the way that Colleen had prepared for us.  As soon as we got the food out, a friendly Weka came to join us.  These birds are flightless and will establish territory. They are unafraid of humans and resemble a wild chicken.  We finished up just as another couple approached, wanting the table.  I think this was the only picnic table we saw in our two days of walking the track.

Pod of Hector Dolphins, seen in Queen Charlotte Sound

Punga Cove Resort has a large dock with a cafe and tables.  Fred and I ordered a beer and then heard someone calling our name.  It was Colleen, who had come over on a boat.  Hmm, that would have saved us some walking!  We had plenty of time to relax.  The water taxi was running almost an hour late.  I can’t fault them though.  There was a pod of Hector Dolphins in the sound and we stopped on our journey back to Picton to watch them.

Back at Picton, we had our second dinner at Le Cafe.  This time we got a table on the sidewalk, looking right out to the sound.  It was a beautiful view and we had a great conversation with our waitress from Wisconsin.

February 21

Today was the ferry crossing between the islands.  Fortunately, we could take our car on the ferry, rather than having to return it and pick up a new car in Wellington.  The entire procedure for loading vehicles was very organized – of course they do this several times a day!  Large trucks load first, followed by cars, followed by campervans.  You drive into the bowel of the ferry and make a U-turn.  So in the end, there were about 10 lanes facing out and one lane facing in.  Then you head to the stairs.  At this point it got a bit confusing.  It seemed like every lounge had a sign saying it was “private, members only”.  We finally asked a member of the crew where we could sit and he told us, “anywhere!”

Onboard InterIsland Ferry

So Fred and I got comfortable in one of the lounges on an upper deck.  I mostly read, with several breaks to see the passing scenery.  It is about an hour through the Marlborough Sounds, an hour between islands, and an hour into the bay at Wellington.  We had very calm seas, fortunately.

Wellington waterfront

Our destination, once we disembarked, was about an hour north of Wellington.  We passed over a mountain range and the roads were very steep and squiggly.  But the scenery was outstanding!  We were going to the winery region of Wairarapa Valley.  First stop was Greytown for a chocolate shop stop and groceries.

Schoc Chocolates

After the green of Northland, the green of Takaka Valley, the green of Marlborough Sounds, the dry and brown landscape of Wairarapa was startling. It’s very flat as well.

We found Schoc Chocolates easily and were the only customers in the place initially.  Then the place got packed and I think the storekeeper got a little overwhelmed.  They had a great selection of chocolates.  Then we stocked up on groceries at the market a few blocks away and headed to Martinborough.

I can’t say I was overly impressed with Greytown. Online, they make it look very charming and a mecca for quaint antique stores. There didn’t seem to be that much going on there. And there really didn’t seem to be much going on at Martinborough either. We took a walk that evening to find some geocaches and only a couple of pubs near the Memorial Square showed any signs of life. It all seemed rather desolate. There were loads of signs for wine tasting at wineries outside of town.

Wood Pidgeon on Queen Charlotte Track

The truly bright spot was the place we rented though. It was this gorgeous little 1920’s refurbished cottage! It had beautiful rustic wood floors, full kitchen, eggs and bacon in the fridge, washer/dryer, fresh flowers in every room, and loads of charm.

The Adventure Continues>>>