{"id":670,"date":"2015-12-16T16:10:03","date_gmt":"2015-12-17T00:10:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.fmsreliability.com\/adventures\/?p=670"},"modified":"2016-07-05T15:51:05","modified_gmt":"2016-07-05T22:51:05","slug":"arrival-auckland-heading-north","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.fmsreliability.com\/adventures\/2015\/12\/16\/arrival-auckland-heading-north\/","title":{"rendered":"Arrival Auckland, Heading North"},"content":{"rendered":"

You would think 3 trips to New Zealand would be enough to feel like you had seen it all.<\/p>\n

Nope.<\/p>\n

On those three trips, we kept to tight loops – one on North Island, two on South Island. \u00a0This left plenty of country left to see on the far ends of each island. \u00a0The inspiration for our trip. \u00a0It did require two days of domestic air travel and three one-way car rentals. \u00a0It wouldn’t be a trip I would suggest for a first-time visit.<\/p>\n

On previous trips, we self-catered. \u00a0This trip was no different. \u00a0Much of our accommodation was privately owned baches (cottages). Would I do it again? Absolutely! It was a very positive experience, great value for money, we had above average facilities to cook, and the places were awesome! We made sure that linen and cleaning was included or available at an agreeable additional charge. It is a bit more back and forth with emails to the hosts. Some would accept online credit card payment, some wanted money wired, some would accept cash when we got there. \u00a0Our average for accommodation was less than $150 per night (about $112 USD).<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Auckland<\/a>

Auckland at sunrise, View from plane<\/p><\/div>\n

February 10<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Skytower\"<\/a>

Skytower<\/p><\/div>\n

We started our drive from Auckland in our almost brand-new Toyota Corolla from Avis fairly early. A bit of cloud cover and plenty of traffic just trying to get on the motorway. Once on SH1, things went much smoother. We were approaching the Harbour Bridge and Fred quickly hands me his iPhone and ask me to take a picture. So I snapped away at the road ahead. No \u2013 he wanted a picture of Sky Tower! \u00a0\u00a0Which was now behind us and I struggled to snap photos between passing vehicles.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

It had been over an hour on the road and I suggested we stop at Warkworth for a cup of coffee. We parked the car and headed down an alleyway to the main street of town. I had made two notes of coffee places there and we couldn\u2019t find either one of them. How big can Warkworth be? So we started walking up the hill and spotted Chocolate Browns across the street.<\/p>\n

I really only marked this as a coffee stop and not for chocolate. What chocolate shop is going to be open before lunch? We ordered two Long Blacks (which I mis-ordered as Tall Blacks and completely confused the server) and enjoyed the sunshine, which had just come out. Then we ventured through the doors to a beautifully laid-out chocolate shop. \u00a0Seemed like a great way to start the trip!<\/p>\n

\"Mangawhai<\/a>

Mangawhai Beach<\/p><\/div>\n

\"View<\/a>

View from Mangawhai Clifftop Walk<\/p><\/div>\n

We continued north and veered off the motorway to head to a coastal walk I had read about at Mangawhai: Mangawhai Clifftop Walk. \u00a0We started\u00a0from the parking area for the Mangwhai Head Surf Lifesaving Club. You have to walk north on the beach for about 20 minutes before you see the green DOC sign indicating the track up the hill. Looking north from the parking lot, it looked like the beach ended at a rocky point that was impassable. We took the chance and as you got closer to the point, the ocean didn\u2019t look as menacing. So we continued on and found the track\u2019s starting point.<\/p>\n

\"Rocks<\/a>

Rocks and island off Mangawhai Beach<\/p><\/div>\n

From there, the track went up the hill with lots of steps. (Lots of steps seemed to be common on this trip, stay tuned.) \u00a0Since it was high tide, we had to do the track as an out-and-back. At low tide it can be done as a loop by walking the shoreline back. A nice series of geocaches were along the top track, egging us on to go a bit further. We retrieved 9 geocaches in all.<\/p>\n

Traveling back to the town of Mangawhai, we\u00a0stopped at Bennett\u2019s Chocolates of Mangawhai. Another very nicely laid out chocolate shop. It seemed to be a popular stop. It had an associated caf\u00e9 where we purchased a sandwich. \u00a0Back to the motorway we went and continued to Whangarei.
\nJust before entering the city of Whangerei, we stopped at Longview Estate Wines. We did like the Malbec\/Merlot they had. But the rest of the wine selection and general experience was so-so. We told the girl neither one of us liked sweet white wines but she was so adamant that we try their signature \u201cWhite Diamonds\u201d wine. It tasted like drinking perfume. From what I gather, they produce this every year, so it must have its fans. The tasting room lacked atmosphere and is in need of some major updating. We\u2019ve had such great experiences with wineries in New Zealand; this was a disappointment.<\/p>\n

Whangarei is probably the only real city in Northland. \u00a0It has New Zealand’s only oil refinery and is a port city. \u00a0We drove further on, to what is known as Whangarei Heads for our accommodation for the next two nights. \u00a0We arrived in the village of Parua Bay and I had very detailed directions from the owner of the bach I had rented. After going down a very narrow dirt driveway, our little house appeared. When Fred saw it, he was impressed. I think the first thing he said was, \u201cIs that all for us?\u201d This really was a great place. If I were building a vacation house for ourselves, this would be it. It\u2019s very secluded, light and airy, had loft ceilings, and a great kitchen. In some ways, it felt like a treehouse. The bar was set high for future accommodation!<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The Brown House<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Our<\/a>

Our kitchen in the Brown House<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

February 11<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Mount<\/a>

Mount Manaia, view from carpark<\/p><\/div>\n

I told Fred we had a hill to climb, a waterfall to see, and caves to explore. Then I gave him the option of which to do first. He wanted to get the hill climbing out of the way. The Mangawhai Clifftop Walk was a quite a workout and I teased him that it was only the warm-up.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Steps<\/a>

Steps at Mount Manaia<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Volcanic<\/a>

Volcanic formation, Mount Manaia<\/p><\/div>\n

The terrain of Whangarei Heads was formed by volcanic activity. \u00a0Hills are steep and have unusual exposed volcanic rock formations at the top.
\nUp until 2011, Mount Manaia was an unimproved track and you had to scramble over rocks and tree roots to make it to the top. DOC has done a superb job of creating steps in the hillside, making this accessible to many more than the extremely fit. But it\u2019s still over 400 meters high and there are 1000\u2019s of steps. 1000\u2019s, literally 1000\u2019s of steps. I can\u2019t imagine the number of man-hours DOC put into building them. Let alone how much effort it took to get all that gravel and lumber to the top by foot. You had glimpses of the harbour and refinery in the beginning and I\u2019ve kind of blocked out what lay in between. But at the top is a platform and a 360 degree view of this beautiful area!<\/p>\n

After taking in the view and chatting with a couple of backpackers, we decided against tracking down the geocache that took a bit of rock climbing to retrieve and headed down. \u00a0The descent was almost as difficult as the climb. When I would stop, my legs were shaking. So were Fred\u2019s. He had brought his full pack of camera gear. \u00a0\u00a0On future hikes, he became a bit more selective.<\/p>\n

Once safely back at our car, we drove to Whangarei Falls. There\u2019s a nice loop to view the falls and return to the carpark. We\u2019ve seen a lot of waterfalls in New Zealand, but this was the first time we saw one with a city park built around it. There were manicured lawns and paved walkways. It felt like Golden Gate Park. It was a bit of a disappointment to me to have something so naturally beautiful in such sterile surroundings.<\/p>\n

\"Whangarei<\/a>

Whangarei Falls<\/p><\/div>\n

At Abbey Caves, we gathered our headlamps and extra batteries. \u00a0There are three caves here. \u00a0After walking through field, we came to the first, Organ Cave. \u00a0It was a very steep descent and you wade through water. \u00a0There was a group of three people coming the other way, only one had a headlamp. \u00a0There were lots of interesting formations and glow worms were overhead. \u00a0But once the water got thigh-high and we couldn’t see the bottom, we decided to head out.<\/p>\n

The next cave was Middle Cave. \u00a0It was reported to be a through cave, unlike Organ Cave. \u00a0It was steep with large rocks to navigate at the entrance. \u00a0Another couple was ahead of us and suggested we go ahead of them. They only had one torch and the batteries had died! So we offered them some batteries so they wouldn\u2019t be heading into the cave completely blind! (Do these folks not prepare?) As it happened, we arrived at an area we couldn\u2019t figure out how to navigate. There was an opening to the outside world above, but it seemed too steep of a climb. We let the other couple pass, and they went down and across and we never saw them again. So we stumbled and crouched and figured out how to get through and out the other end.<\/p>\n

\"Along<\/a>

Along the Mount Manaia Track<\/p><\/div>\n

There was one last cave, Ivy Cave, and by the time we reached the opening and saw it was steep and rocky, we decided we had had enough of an adventure for the day. So we took the track through the pasture out of the area and back to our car.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

February 12<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"View<\/a>

View north, from Tutukaka Lighthouse<\/p><\/div>\n

\"View<\/a>

View south, from Tutukaka Lighthouse<\/p><\/div>\n

We packed up our belongings and said goodbye to our little house. Low tide was at 8am and our destination was the lighthouse at Tutukaka. \u00a0You have to do this hike at half tide or lower. There\u2019s an isthmus to cross to the \u201cisland\u201d the lighthouse is located on and it\u2019s underwater at high tide.<\/p>\n

The weather was a bit windy and seemed on the verge of rain any moment. We made a dry crossing of the isthmus and hiked around the island to the lighthouse area. It\u2019s not a photogenic lighthouse but the views from there are outstanding. The sun shone on us and there was no wind!<\/p>\n

\"Gray<\/a>

Gray skies at Tutukaka<\/p><\/div>\n

When we returned to the isthmus,\u00a0there was a group of three ladies, contemplating if they had enough tide left to make it to the lighthouse. As we were talking to them, it started raining and I think that made the decision for them. We got back to the car and drove up to Matapouri.<\/p>\n

\"View<\/a>

View at Whale Bay<\/p><\/div>\n

There are several options for walks around the peninsula at Matapouri. \u00a0The weather was so dreary, we opted to do the short walk to Whale Bay instead. If it should start raining, we wouldn\u2019t be far from the car. Whale Bay was an easy walk and a very nice beach. It was protected from the ocean (no waves) and seemed like it would be a great place to take young children. We watched in amusement as a seagull seemed to do a dance as he churned up the sand looking for food.<\/p>\n

\"Kawakawa<\/a>

Kawakawa Toilets<\/p><\/div>\n

Our next stop was the Kawakawa toilets. If you are like Fred, by now you are wondering why we would plan a stop at some town\u2019s toilets if there were no need. Just do it, trust me. Seems that Frederick Hundertwasser was an artist from Austria who made the area his second home. The town commissioned him to design the public toilets and the entire community pitched in to help. The result is highly unique. The entire town got into the spirit of the design and even public benches and streetlamps are works of art.<\/p>\n

\"Mahoe<\/a>

Mahoe Cheese<\/p><\/div>\n

So now we came to Fred\u2019s favorite part of the day \u2013 tasting! First up was Mahoe Cheese. It was located off the main road on a gravel road and not really part of any town, just off to itself. You drive through a real farm to get to the small building where they operate the cheese shop. The gentleman there was very helpful and allowed us to taste a few cheeses.<\/p>\n

\"Marsden<\/a>

Marsden Estate Winery<\/p><\/div>\n

Further up the road and opposite the turnoff to Kerikeri, was Marsden Estate Winery. This was a really nice wine tasting experience – a far cry from our first day. \u00a0The wine was excellent and we had fun talking to a couple of Canadians, exchanging stories about our New Zealand travels.<\/p>\n

Then we drove to the other side of the motorway and stopped at Makana Chocolates! (If you are counting, this is our third chocolate shop.) \u00a0We had visited Makana in Blenheim, South Island, in a previous trip and knew what to expect. This shop is set up in the same way. You can see the chocolate being made through a wall of windows and they give out samples! We purchased a box of toffee and a box of truffles.<\/p>\n

\"St.<\/a>

St. Paul’s Rock<\/p><\/div>\n

We continued north to the town of Whangaroa and found a place to park close to the St. Paul\u2019s Rock Track. St. Paul\u2019s Rock is the eroded core of an ancient volcano.\u00a0\u00a0 You can drive halfway up the hill before you need to get out and walk. At the very end is a short section of chain you will want to hang onto as you climb the bare rock. The payoff is a 360 degree view at the top.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

We headed back to the car and down the hill to our accommodation at Whangaroa Lodge Motel.<\/p>\n

\"View<\/a>

View of harbor from Whangaroa Lodge Motel<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

The Adventure Continues>>><\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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