{"id":1146,"date":"2018-05-03T17:59:27","date_gmt":"2018-05-04T00:59:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.fmsreliability.com\/adventures\/?p=1146"},"modified":"2018-05-06T11:08:12","modified_gmt":"2018-05-06T18:08:12","slug":"kenmare-ring-of-beara-ring-of-kerry","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.fmsreliability.com\/adventures\/2018\/05\/03\/kenmare-ring-of-beara-ring-of-kerry\/","title":{"rendered":"Kenmare (Ring of Beara, Ring of Kerry)"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Druid's<\/a><\/p>\n

9\/11 \u2013 <\/strong>Today I wanted to explore Ring of Beara.\u00a0 The lower west coast of Ireland has several large peninsulas that jut out to the sea.\u00a0 Beara is not highly touristed but seemed to have a lot of interesting places to stop.<\/p>\n

First up was a stop at Lorge Chocolatier.\u00a0 Just walking into the shop filled your senses.\u00a0We purchased several for the days ahead.<\/p>\n

Next up was Droid\u2019s Lookout.\u00a0 This didn\u2019t show up in my research at all.\u00a0 It had an interesting statue and some nice views of the valley.\u00a0 There was a tavern across the street.<\/p>\n

The Ewe Experience was our next stop.\u00a0 I really wasn\u2019t expecting much of it, but it was well worth the 7 euros.\u00a0 It\u2019s several acres of nicely done gardens with garden art.\u00a0 We were given instructions to loosely follow the 50 markers and be sure to look up, look down, and look in the distance.\u00a0 There were educational signboards and other boards with poetry.\u00a0Lots of the art was created with recycled materials.\u00a0 They didn\u2019t beat you over the head with an environmental message, but it was certainly there.\u00a0 It was very well done.\u00a0\u00a0 I think we ended up spending an hour and a half there and could have stayed longer.\u00a0But we had only started on our journey around the peninsula.<\/p>\n

\n

\"The<\/a>\"The<\/a>These are only 2 of the literally hundreds of things to see at the Ewe Experience. \u00a0It may first just appear as garden art, but it was much more. \u00a0The fish on the left are made from recycled bottles. \u00a0The character on the left probably had a poem about it. \u00a0As you proceeded further into the garden, the signboards had a more pronounced message about man’s influence on the environment.<\/em><\/p>\n

\n

We visited Glengarriff Nature Reserve and did the walk to the waterfall.\u00a0 It wasn\u2019t much of a waterfall, nor a walk.\u00a0 It was starting to rain and that squelched any ideas of walking any other trails there.<\/p>\n

I had wanted to go to Garnish Island, but the weather was getting worse and going out on a boat didn\u2019t seem a good idea.\u00a0 I hindsight, we would have been fine because it\u2019s so far up a bay, the water is very sheltered.\u00a0 And the rain subsided a bit.\u00a0 We did get some nice photos from a pullout.<\/p>\n

\n

\"Along<\/a>\u00a0A view we had of Garnish Island, looking down a nearby inlet. \u00a0Unfortunately, the boat to Garnish Island departed several kilometers back and it was pouring rain when we passed the road to the dock. \u00a0You can see some rain in the photo on the right. \u00a0The weather was very fickle this day.<\/em><\/p>\n

\n

We turned off the main road and up a hill to Massmount Church Ruins.\u00a0 The rain started again and we were in a very remote area.\u00a0 I took a couple of pictures and we were on our way.<\/p>\n

\"Puxley<\/a>Our next stop was rather interesting.\u00a0 Call it Dunbar Castle, Puxley Manor, or Castletownbere Loop. \u00a0There’s ruins of a 500-year old castle, a refurbished but abandoned 100-year old castle (made from the ruins of a burned out 300-year old castle), and a nature walk.<\/p>\n

The first thing you notice is an elaborate gatehouse.\u00a0 It\u2019s not in ruins, but not maintained either.\u00a0Passing that and in the distance, is a huge mansion that looks to be in similar disrepair.\u00a0 As you get closer, you notice there is chainlink fencing all around and there\u2019s no access into the Manor.\u00a0 It had a long history of occupancy and vacancy.\u00a0 The most recent being a large hotel chain was going to renovate it, but became victim of the crash of 2008.\u00a0 (Full story here: https:\/\/apassportaffair.com\/2013\/11\/14\/ravaged-abandoned-burned-osullivan-curse-puxley-manor\/ )<\/p>\n

\n

\"Dunboy<\/a>A view looking through one of the “windows” of the Dunboy Castle ruins. \u00a0A huge seige took place here over 500 years ago and destroyed the castle. \u00a0Nature has completely taken over it. \u00a0There were a handful of people exploring the ruins – the most we saw anywhere along the Ring of Beara.<\/em><\/p>\n

\n

But the real history started with the Dunboy Castle that is on the property.\u00a0 It was a victim of a siege in 1602 that resulted in hundreds of deaths and curse put on the land.\u00a0 The ruins of the castle are free to roam around and very overgrown.\u00a0 Not much of it is left, but interesting and fun all the same.\u00a0 Beyond the castle is a trail that follows the shoreline.\u00a0 We walked it until the trail started heading inland.\u00a0 At the mouth of the inlet, waves were crashing below the lighthouse.<\/p>\n

\n

\"Lighthouse<\/a>Our view out to sea at Bullig Bay, Ring of Beara. \u00a0The lighthouse sits atop of Bere Island.<\/em><\/p>\n

\n

We drove around the end of the \u201cRing\u201d and on the north shores, the roads got narrower and narrower. \u00a0Villages had the most colorful buildings.\u00a0 We stopped at the ruins of Kilcatherine Church and by then we were tired and skipped out on circle forts and other random points of interest.\u00a0 We headed back to our Lodge and out to dinner at The Lime Tree.\u00a0 This was probably my favorite eating establishment in Kenmare.<\/p>\n

\n

\"View<\/a>The main road around the Ring of Beara as you head back along the northern shore. \u00a0Tour buses don’t drive the Ring of Beara. \u00a0We didn’t have it all to ourselves, but it was very pleasant for the lack of other visitors<\/em><\/p>\n

\n

9\/12 <\/strong>\u2013 Today is Ring of Kerry.\u00a0 Unlike yesterday\u2019s peninsula, this one is on almost every tour and buses are frequent.\u00a0You have to make the choice of whether you want to go in the same direction of bus traffic and run the risk of being stuck behind a slow moving one.\u00a0 Or do you go the opposite direction and have to squeeze around them on Ireland\u2019s narrow roads. \u00a0We decided to go with the flow and we really didn\u2019t have much difficulty.<\/p>\n

Our first stop was a bit off the \u201cRing\u201d at Staigue Stone Fort.\u00a0 There were a few cars, but no busses \u2013 I don\u2019t think they get off the main roads.\u00a0This was our first visit to a stone fort and by far the best.\u00a0 You were able to go inside it, climb up it, look into chambers in the walls of it.\u00a0And all for free!\u00a0 I was amazed at how it was all constructed without mortar 1000 years ago.\u00a0 Looking at the sides, the walls are absolute precision.\u00a0 So it was a good start to our day.<\/p>\n

\n

\"Staigue<\/a>Standing on top of Staigue stone Fort, Ring of Kerry. \u00a0This was the most accessible of the stone forts we went to. \u00a0You can see Fred’s and my shadows in the grass.<\/em><\/p>\n

\n

From there we went to Derrynane Bay and Abbey Island.\u00a0 The island is completely walkable except in extreme high tides.\u00a0 There are the remains of a 10th<\/sup>century Abbey and graveyard on the island.\u00a0 Most of the graves were faced outwards to the sea and had a fantastic view!<\/p>\n

Seems like graveyards are everywhere in the country, and very visible.\u00a0\u00a0 Not like the cemeteries in the US.\u00a0 In Ireland, there\u2019s a mix of old and new.\u00a0 Many gravesites would be of entire families and generations.\u00a0 It would be a section of earth, about the dimensions of a double bed and the monument would have 16 names on it.\u00a0 Sometimes additional names would be carved into the sides!\u00a0 They just pack them in!\u00a0 It was weirdly fascinating.<\/p>\n

\n

\"Abbey<\/a>The graveyard at Abbey Island (not really an island unless high tide). \u00a0Unlike most graveyards where the headstones are turned towards the pathways, these all faced out to the sea. \u00a0You can also see the ruins of the church.<\/em><\/p>\n

\n

Nearby was Derrynane Manor, which appeared to be a mansion and gardens.\u00a0 We only looked around long enough to find a geocache.<\/p>\n

From this area, we could see the Skellig Islands in the distance.\u00a0 They were made popular by a recent Star War movie.\u00a0 I wanted to drive to a lookout that had a better view, but by the time we got there, the clouds had moved in and it started pouring rain.\u00a0 Fred wanted to grab a geocache at the lookout, but it was too wet for me to want to be out looking for it.<\/p>\n

It broke up a little bit as we drove through Waterville.\u00a0 This town was not on my radar, but apparently all the tour buses stop there to let the passengers wander around and have lunch.\u00a0 It was packed!<\/p>\n

We found our way to Ballycarbery Castle ruins.\u00a0It was beautiful from the outside, but surrounded by a chainlink fence.\u00a0 A short distance away was the carpark for two stone forts.\u00a0 By then the rains came with a vengeance and we walked to Leacanabuaile Stone Fort, griping our rain jackets and me, my umbrella.\u00a0The umbrella was a mistake because it was so windy.\u00a0 At least the fort was somewhat interesting and had remnants of stone houses built inside it.\u00a0 I think the houses were built long after the fort served its usefulness and someone thought it would be a good place to build a house.\u00a0 I understand nearby Cahergall Stone Fort is similar.\u00a0 But we didn\u2019t bother walking there because the rain was coming down so hard.<\/p>\n

\n

\"Derrynane<\/a>
\n\u00a0Derrynane Bay, Ring of <\/em>Kerry<\/p>\n

\n

We decided to call it a day and googlemaps showed a road across the peninsula through Ballaghisheen Pass.\u00a0 It started okay, but got narrower and narrower.\u00a0Sometimes it was raining, sometimes not.\u00a0The scenery was beautiful though!\u00a0I thought maybe Fred would be upset about the narrow roads but he didn\u2019t mind it and thought the scenery more than made up for it.\u00a0 There weren\u2019t too many cars to pass.\u00a0 Most of the time we found a slightly wider part of the road to do it.\u00a0 But one time, we had to drive into the bushes to let the other guy pass.\u00a0 It\u2019s all an adventure, right?<\/p>\n

Dinner that night was at the third place we tried.\u00a0Our first two choices were closed on Tuesdays!\u00a0 No35 Kenmare was open and we got one of the 6 tables downstairs.<\/p>\n

The Adventure Continues>>><\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/h2>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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